How to Grow Epiphyte Plants in the Aquarium

Epiphytes are useful because they can be positioned almost anywhere in the aquarium. Moss attached to rock can make hardscape appear softer and more natural, while Anubias or ferns growing from driftwood can give the impression of age and maturity. Small Bucephalandras can be tucked into shaded cracks and crevices to add depth, colour, and fine detail throughout the layout.

Because many epiphytes grow slowly, they are generally easier to manage than fast-growing stem plants. While they are not ideal for quickly filling out a new aquarium, they are excellent for creating long-term structure, texture, and stability within a scape.

They also work especially well in tanks with thinner substrate, exposed hardscape, or layouts where planting space is limited. For aquariums built heavily around wood and stone, epiphytes are often one of the most practical and visually effective plant choices.

Light, Fertiliser and CO₂ Balance 

Most epiphytes are not demanding plants, but they still need balance. Light, fertiliser and CO2 all work together. If the light is increased, the plants will usually need more nutrients and carbon to keep up. If the balance is off, algae often takes advantage before the plants do. For many epiphyte-heavy tanks, low lighting is a sensible starting point. Very strong light is  risky because slow-growing leaves are more likely to collect algae.

Since epiphytes are generally slow-growing plants, they usually do not require heavy fertilisation. In fact, many species can be sensitive to over-fertilisation, so it is often recommended to err on the lower side when dosing nutrients. Both root fertilisation and water column fertilisation can be used successfully depending on the setup.

It is perfectly fine to grow epiphytes without planting them into substrate or soil. However, most will generally grow larger and faster if their roots are able to reach soil,.

CO₂ is not always required, especially epiphytes, however, their growth, health and colouration will be much better with the addition of CO₂.

Preferred level of total dissolved solids (TDS) in water is between 100 and 200, with soft to moderate hardness.

For beginners, it is usually better to start gently. Use a consistent lighting schedule, dose fertiliser carefully, and make changes slowly rather than adjusting everything at once.

Early Care

The first few weeks are about helping the plants settle. Check that attached plants have not come loose. Fish, shrimp, water flow or maintenance can sometimes dislodge newly placed plants before they have had time to attach. Remove yellowing, mushy or damaged leaves. This keeps the aquarium cleaner and allows the plant to put energy into healthy new growth.

Some plants may take time to adapt. Slow-growing epiphytes do not always show quick progress, so be patient. New leaves and fresh roots are good signs. Keep an eye on the balance of light, fertiliser and CO₂ during this period. Start with low light and short photoperiod. If algae starts appearing on older leaves, avoid panicking. Reduce excess light, improve flow, remove affected leaves if needed, and always make small adjustments.

Placement in the Aquarium

Epiphytes are flexible, but placement still matters. Anubias often does well in slightly shaded areas, such as under wood, beside rocks or around the midground. Bucephalandras are excellent for small details. Place them where they can be seen up close, such as the front edges of stones, small gaps in wood, or lower midground areas.

Microsorums and Bolbitis are useful for adding height and texture. They look natural attached to larger wood pieces or placed behind rocks where the leaves can grow out into open water.

Mosses can be used almost anywhere. They look beautiful on branches and stones, giving the tank an aged look. 

As a general rule, think about the mature size of the plant, not just how it looks when newly bought. A small plant attached to the perfect spot looks much better than a large clump squeezed into the wrong place.

Different genera have very different appearances, care requirements, and growth habits. Learning the main groups makes plant selection much easier.